The Breath between Waves: Greg Long gives Insight into the Practice of Mindful Breathing, the Evolution of BWRAG’s Surf Safety Programs and his Commitment to Protecting our Oceans
In this episode of On Water, we sit down with perhaps the most famous big wave surfer on the planet, Greg Long, for a wide-ranging and deeply personal conversation about his career, his mindset about moving forward, and where he’s headed next as a leader, teacher and spokesperson for the world wide surf community.
Always down to earth, forward-facing, and reflective, Greg takes us through the many currents shaping his life beyond the waves. Our conversation flows from his time in Montauk for the Surfrider Foundation’s annual gala to the breath apnea and mindful breathing classes he now teaches, the practice he credits as a foundation of his success in big wave surfing.
Greg dives deeper into the next evolution of Big Wave Risk Assessment Group (BWRAG), the nonprofit organization he has recently became president of and shares the vision for expanding BWRAG’s mission to equip surf-based communities around the world with critical, lifesaving skills in order to help protect surfers, beachgoers, watermen and women, and anyone who spends time in and around the ocean.
Greg’s commitment to protecting the places and communities he loves comes through clearly as he talks about his longtime support of the Surfrider Foundation, his participation in the recent Save the Waves’ designation of Zicatela as a World Surfing Reserve, as well as other projects where his heart lies and what motivates him to get up in the morning.
This is the deeper side of Greg Long: his long term interests, his love of surfing, his commitment to giving back and his vision for the next chapter of his life and career. Honest, introspective and deeply refreshing, this conversation casts Greg in a whole new light: not simply as a big wave champion, but as a fiercely devoted human seeking ways to make the world a better place.
Have a listen. You may come away feeling a little more inspired, a little more grounded, and a lot more forward-thinking.
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